Part Two: Chapter V
PLEASANT MEMORIES OF SOCIAL LIFE
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Whatever was lacking in Old San Diego, the social life was rich and beautiful. This is the testimony of all visitors and all the old residents who have lived to tell the tale. People did not take life too seriously in those days. They made the most of their opportunities for happiness, and collected large dividends of content, whether they had any other sort or not. The echo of their laughter still rings down the pathway of the years, and suggests to the nervous Americans of today that there might be some pleasant compromise between the extremes of energy and indolence which would result in forms of life peculiarly suited to the rare environment of this southern land. The different classes of society were quite distinct in the early time, the division running on lines of birth. Natives of Spain or direct descendants of such natives, constituted the upper class and prided themselves upon the purity of their blood. Aside from this, they had other and better claims to consideration, for they were usually well educated and always possessed of considerable culture. In a society accustomed to caste, they naturally assumed a position of leadership. Some of them were gentlemen in reduced circumstances who had taken to soldiering in the hope of retrieving their fortunes. Others were men of good families who had secured official appointments. All of them were proud and dignified in bearing, even when they happened to be very poor. The lower classes consisted, first, of Mexicans with more or less Aztec and Indian blood, and, last of all, the native Indian. Most of the Mexicans were soldiers, some of whom brought their wives, while others married Indian women after coming here. They were a class corresponding to the Spanish peasantry and furnished the labor of the country.
The social customs which flourished in the midst of these conditions were so deeply marked with the spirit of common kindness that one can hardly escape the thought that something has been lost, as well as gained, in our present-day struggle to get ahead, as individuals and communities. Take, for instance, the matter of hospitality to strangers. To offer to pay for entertainment was an affront. The traveler was supplied with a fresh horse at every stage of his journey, and had no care or expense in the matter of returning them to their owners. On a table beside his bed he found a quantity of silver, to which he was expected to help himself, according to his needs, and no questions were asked. If a man needed a bullock, he might send a vaquero to lasso one from the herd of his wealthy neighbor, and pay for it when convenient—and if it did not become convenient, it was no matter. If a horse were borrowed and not returned, it was of no consequence—there were plenty more. The average of wealth among the cattle owners was large and their bounty was as free as air. Incivility was absolutely unknown. Even the poorest peasant saluted you politely and was prepared to carry a message or do any little courtesy without charge and with an air of cheerfulness and good humor. The kindness of the people was genuine and unaffected. It was the custom to call all persons by their Christian names, with an easy familiarity. Older men received the prefix of Don or Senor Don, and ladies of Dona or Senorita Dona, if unmarried, and Senora Dona, if married. It was also quite usual to playfully nickname one's intimate friends in a humorous manner to which the Spanish language lends itself most happily. For instance, Wm. A. Gale was known as Quatro Ojos (four eyes), on account of his wearing glasses. He was also called Tornzenta (gale), and Cambalache (barter), both for obvious reasons. One of the most remarkable characteristics of the Californians was the very great respect shown to parents by their children. This deference was not abandoned with the passing years, but even a grown man coming into the presence of his father or mother always removed his hat and remained standing until invited to sit. No man, whatever his age, ever smoked in the presence of his father or mother. If a young man met an elder in the street, he would throw away his cigar and lift his hat, whether to his parents or a stranger. Servants showed the same deference to their employers. One scarcely knows what to say about the current stories of old men chastising their grown sons, and the latter, although themselves the fathers of families, kneeling meekly to receive the punishment. They may be true, and do seem fairly well authenticated. The better class of Californians were temperate, with few exceptions. They were fond of smoking, however, and the habit was almost universal with them. The Mexican ladies were also fond of tobacco. and brought the custom of smoking cigaritos to California. Notions of propriety were strict and young people, even when engaged, were not left to themselves. Courtships were usually arranged by the mother or aunt of the young lady. This was followed by a written proposal for the young lady's hand, from the suitor to her father, and the reply was also given in writing. Weddings were made the occasion of much social gaiety. Davis says that at a wedding which he attended in 1838, he was met on the road by a brother of the groom, gorgeously attired and splendidly mounted. Horses were lassoed for the wedding cavalcade. He had brought his own saddle, according to the custom, even though a guest. There were two cavalcades for the use of the party, one of red roan horses and the other of twenty-five blacks. On returning from the Mission and approaching the house of the groom's father, the old gentleman fired a salute with a brass cannon which he kept in the plaza in front of the dwelling. It was customary for the Californians to marry young. One reason for this was in order that the young men might thereby escape being drafted into the army. It was not uncommon for boys of sixteen, or seventeen, and girls of fifteen or sixteen, to marry. Balls given at the celebration of the nuptials usually lasted three days. Arbors were carefully prepared, with beaten earthen floors, and lined with sheets and other articles to exclude the wind. The feasting and dancing did not cease, night or day. One of the best descriptions of the wedding customs is that contained in Dana's Two Years Before the Mast, wherein he describes the wedding of Alfred Robinson and Señorita de la Guerra y Noriega, at Santa Barbara in 1836. He says:
A more intimate view is given by Robinson himself, in his account of the wedding of his wife's sister, a little earlier, both the contracting parties, in this case, being Spanish:
Even a funeral was made the occasion of feasting and dancing. Dana thus describes his first encounter with this custom in Santa Barbara:
Some of the things at which Dana wondered seem natural and beautiful enough. Mrs. Whaley describes a funeral at Old San Diego, which was very similar, except that the body was carried on a bier and not placed in the coffin until the cemetery was reached. A priest walked before, saying prayers, and the musicians walked on both sides playing violins, guitars, and other instruments. At the rear followed a man with firecrackers which he was setting off as they moved. The last interment in the cemetery within the presidial enclosure was that of Captain Fitch, in 1849. Nothing now remains to show that the spot was ever used for such a purpose. The Catholic cemetery on the mesa was used until February, 1874, when the large new cemetery, on the hill above the town, was laid out under Father Ubach's direction, and has been in use ever since. On the subject of dancing and other amusements, it is again convenient to draw upon Robinson. Don Juan Bandini had his house blessed during the stay of Gale and Robinson at San Diego in 1829, and they were invited to attend.
The bamba was a favorite dance, in which the lady would often dance with a glass of water poised on her head, or with her feet muffled in a handkerchief. The jota and the zorrita were danced by couples and accompanied by singing. The contra-danza was indulged in by the better classes and young persons seldom participated.
Before 1800, few houses had other than an earth floor, and the dancing was done upon the ground, which from constant use became very hard. A wooden platform was constructed, upon which the women and more skillful males might dance. After the ball was over, the men in groups accompanied the women to their homes, playing music as they went. After this, they would sometimes ride about the streets and sing or indulge in rougher sports. "How often," exclaims Doña Refugia de Bandini, "did we spend half the night at a tertulia till 2 o'clock in the morning, in the most agreeable and distinguished society. Our house would be full of company—thirty or forty persons at the table; it would have to be set twice. A single fiesta might cost $1,000, but in those days the receipts at my husband's store were $18,000 a month. The prettiest women were to be found at San Diego." "Ah, what times we used to have," exclaims another, "every week to La Playa, aboard the ships—silks! officers! rebozos! music! dancing! frolic!" These "good times" continued until long after the American occupation and formed the pleasantest part of the recollections of old settlers now living. "We used to have great times here," says one, "real jolly good times. The people didn't think of anything else, then, but pleasure and amusement. We used to have fandangos, or little parties, at night. We could get up one of these balls in a couple of hours. There was horse-racing, too." Mrs. Whaley relates that on the day of her arrival, the 8th of December, 1853, there was a festival and ball at the Gila House and she was prevailed upon to go. " We had splendid dances there," she says. "The musicians were Californians and played only Spanish airs. They looked as if they were asleep while they played. I remember particularly the cascarones—eggs filled with tinsel and cologne water, which were broken over the heads of the dancers. I have had many a cascarone broken on my head. The suppers were also fine, but at first I found the Spanish cooking too highly seasoned for my taste." The frequent fiestas were one of the most highly prized features of the social life of early days, and one which persisted after nearly all the other characteristic amusements had passed away. In the Herald of September 3, 1853, Lieut. Derby wrote: "The great event of the past week has been the fiesta at San Luis Rey. Many of our citizens attended, and a very large number of native Californians and Indians collected from the various ranchos in the vicinity. High mass was celebrated in the old church on Thursday morning, an Indian baby was baptized, another nearly killed by being run over by an excited individual on an excited horse, and that day and the following were passed in witnessing the absurd efforts of some twenty natives to annoy a number of tame bulls, with the tips of their horns cut off. This great national amusement, ironically termed bullfighting, consists in waving a serape, or handkerchief, in front of the bull until he is sufficiently annoyed to run after his tormentor, when that individual gets out of his way, with great precipitation. The nights are passed in an equally intellectual manner. " On August 28, 1858, Editor Ames says: "Our quiet village was nearly deserted during the whole of last week, the greater portion of our citizens being absent at the Feast. We have heard it estimated that 3,000 persons were present at San Luis Rey during the Feast week." Horse-racing was a common source of diversion and was indulged in by all classes. No feast day passed without a number of races, which were always attended with great interest and sometimes large sums of money were lost and won. They were usually run by two horses, in short heats of from two to four hundred yards. Dana found the population greatly interested and excited by these events. The Old San Diego race-course was on the flat ground between the town and San Diego Bay, and in the fifties and sixties some famous races took place there. In its first number, October 3, 1868, the Union says: "Tomorrow at two o'clock a two-mile race will be run over the Mission track. Alfredo Carrillo names b. h. Muggins, Jesus Marron names b. h. Buck. We are not advised as to the amount of the stakes, but learn that besides a large amount of money already up, the winner takes the losing horse." In early times, when money was scarce, the stakes were more often in cattle. It is to be feared that bull-and-bear fights were not unknown here, although not so common as in other parts of the territory. The animals were placed in a strong enclosure and the whole population went to see the combat. seats being provided for women and children. A hind leg of the bear and a fore leg of the bull were strapped together, and the combat sometimes lasted for hours before one of the animals succumbed. Far more pleasant to recall are the picnics, in which it was the custom to indulge with joyous abandon. The married ladies rode on their own saddles, while the young women were carried on horseback by the young men. This service was considered a post of honor, and discharged in the most polite and gallant manner possible. A bride was often carried to church in this manner. Sometimes the picnickers would ride in wagons drawn by oxen, and, if one of their number could play, there would be both instrumental and vocal music, going and coming. At the picnic grounds, mats were spread and a feast held, after which games were played. In the evening, after the return, the day would be finished with the inevitable dancing. The only thing resembling dramatic performances were the pastores, or sacred comedies, in which the inhabitants took a deep interest. On Christmas night, 1837, such a pastorela was performed, and Alfred Robinson has left an account of it. Among the performers were Guadalupe Estudillo, Felipe Marron, Isadora Pico, and other girls. He thus describes the performance and the midnight mass which preceded it:
In later days there was an occasional circus, which must have been a godsend to the laughter-loving people. The late Mrs. E. W. Morse, who arrived here in July, 1865, says:
The Californians were famous horsemen, as everyone knows. Indeed, the Californian who was not a good rider was looked upon with contempt. The greatest tribute which could be made to friendship, was a present of a good horse. The usual gait in riding was a hard gallop, which was not slackened even when lighting a cigar. The trappings were heavy and gorgeous and covered the horse from neck to tail. Many of the ladies were skillful riders. Their saddles had no stirrup, but they rested their foot in the loop of a silken band, instead. The only other means of locomotion was in the primitive oxcarts of the time, which were truly a survival of ante-diluvian days. They had either two or four wheels, which were made of the section of a tree about four feet in diameter, sawed off about a foot thick. The body of the vehicle was set upon the axle, with no springs. A light canopy was erected over this. They were all wood, no metal at all being used. The cart was drawn by oxen, the tongue being attached to their horns by ropes. The driver walked in front, to guide the team, and the women and children in the body of the cart prodded them with sticks. This primitive contrivance was the only means of conveyance, besides horseback riding, for many years. All freighting was done in this manner and many long journeys performed, as well as nearby picnics. Considerable skill was required to guide these carts safely over the crude roads. It is said that the Californians were somewhat negligent about keeping the axles greased and did not mind the frightful shrieks which usually accompanied their progress. It is said, too, that it was not uncommon for the oxen to be trained to run races, and that this diversion was often indulged in on the way to and from church. E. W. Morse related that one Pedro Gastelhum left his home in Ensenada, with his family, and traveled in such a conveyance to the homes of friends and relatives in Sonora, fully a thousand miles. "It may have taken them six months to reach their destination," says Mr. Morse, "but what of it? Unlike the Gringos, they saw no need of hurrying and worrying through this life. Their countrymen occupied ranches all along the route, to which they were heartily welcome, without money and without price, whether their stay was long or short. This family returned in the same manner, having been gone about two years, and, I doubt not, have always looked upon that trip as the most enjoyable of their lives." This was the only vehicle in the country until the fifties. In 1853, Abel Stearns imported a carriage from Boston, which was looked upon by the Californians as a deplorable and dangerous piece of vanity. At Santa Barbara, where there was more wealth, we have seen that Captain de la Guerra y Noriega owned a barouche several years earlier.
Dana tells how, while left in charge of a hide house in San Diego for some weeks, a part of his duties was to gather wood for use in cooking. This fuel consisted of scrub oak trees, which they brought in on a hand-cart, from the hills back of La Playa. While so engaged they had considerable sport with various kinds of game. Coyotes (which Dana calls coatis) were so plentiful that the pack of dogs kept at the hide houses frequently caught and killed them. They also shot hares and rabbits, and Dana makes quite a story of the killing of a rattlesnake. The rodeos, or "round-ups" of cattle, were held frequently for the purpose of keeping the herds together, as well as of branding the cattle. They were more in the nature of sport than of labor and gave fine opportunity for the display of horsemanship. As the importance of the cattle interest increased, regulations were enacted by the territorial assembly for the due government of these important functions, which were presided over by the juez del campo, or judge of the plains. These officials were continued under the American administration and regularly appointed for several years. The houses in which the Californians lived were of a type peculiarly adapted to the climate and to their habits of life. The walls were of adobes, or large, thin, sun-dried bricks. Usually there was no frame-work, and no wood in the structure except the doors, window frames, and roof timbers. The walls were laid up and cemented with mud and whitewashed without and within. The roof timbers were laid upon the walls, usually without other support, and the roof covered with thin red tiles so shaped and laid as to be an effectual protection against rain. The poorer people used tule or earth instead of tiles, for their roofs. The wealthier classes had board floors, either at first or later on, but others were content with the hard-packed ground. Doors were sometimes of wood, but not infrequently consisted of a dried bullock's hide, especially on ranchos. When carefully built, these houses were very comfortable as well as durable; but when exposed unprotected to the weather, they soon decayed. There were no stairs to climb and no plumbing to get out of order; they were cool in summer and warm in winter; and the extent to which the later comers are reverting to the Mission type of architecture shows how sensibly they were built. Some of these houses—the simplest—consisted of only four walls and one room. The next better ones had a partition, making two apartments, and a little farther up the scale, a very long building was erected, with numerous rooms and entrances. But the highest type of house was built in the Spanish fashion, in a square, with an inner court. This patio was surrounded by a corridor, off which doors opened into the rooms. Several of the houses in old San Diego were of this kind. The furniture was simple—in the earliest days quite primitive. Later, the wealthier families secured furniture from Spain and bought that made at the missions. A good deal of this old Spanish and mission-made furniture can still be found at the country seats of the principal ranchos. When the Boston ships began to pursue their profitable traffic in hides, they brought quantities of New England-made furniture, which became the rage and was preferred in San Diego to the plainer and more substantial Spanish and mission products. The Californians ate a great deal of meat—almost subsisted upon it. The staple food was beef broiled on an iron rod, or steak with onions, and sometimes mutton, chicken, and eggs. A lunch put up for Alfred Robinson in San Diego consisted of one boiled chicken, one smoked beef tongue, half a dozen hardboiled eggs, a loaf of bread, a small cheese, a bottle of wine, and a little paper of salt and pepper—not bad, if one were not a vegetarian. The bread was tortillas, sometimes made with yeast. Beans they knew how to cook admirably, also corn and potatoes. Their tamales and chili con carne (meat cooked with chili peppers) are too well known to require description. The use of soups was understood, and fish were considerably eaten, especially on Fridays. Duhaut-Cilly says that the Californians considered venison unfit for food. We also learn that they cared little for mutton, pork, or bear's meat, but were exceedingly fond of veal. They were famous makers of sugared pastry. The cooks were largely Indians who had been trained for the work, and some of whom became quite expert. This was something to which the later comers found it hard to become accustomed. Mrs. Morse said respecting this matter: "The cooking at the hotel was quite unlike the cooking at the Hotel Del Coronado at the present time. I sat at the table alone, being the only woman in the house. An Indian boy waited on me at the table, and also gave me the news of the town. The landlord, an Irish gentleman, kindly told me that I could go into the kitchen and cook whatever I wished, if I did not like the Indian style. I availed myself of the privilege and there were some interesting discoveries. The cook was sitting on a bench in front of an open sack of flour, vigorously scratching his head. This brought unpleasant suggestions to mind, as did also his stirring of the food while it was cooking with his long hair dangling over it." When diet is mentioned, one naturally thinks of the fondness of Californians for high seasoning. The use of red peppers in meat was quite general. In hot countries, these peppers serve a highly important use and are to the Spaniard very much what his pork and beans are to the Bostonian. In the cool climate of San Diego, their use would not appear to have been so necessary. The women were neat and cleanly in their housekeeping. The bedding, especially, was much praised. The coverlids and pillowcases were frequently of satin and trimmed with beautiful and costly lace. Except in a few of the wealthiest families, no table was set, but the family would proceed to the kitchen where food was passed around in plates or clay dishes. Forks and spoons were of horn. The subject of dress is another of those topics which can scarcely be touched without the temptation to write a volume, but to which only a paragraph can be given. The dress worn by middle class women was a chemise with short sleeves, embroidered and trimmed with lace. A muslin petticoat was flounced with scarlet and secured at the waist by a scarlet band. Shoes were of velvet or blue satin, and with a cotton scarf, pearl necklace and earrings, completed the costume. The hair was worn plaited and hanging down the back. Others substituted a silk or satin shawl for the reboso. The English style of dress was early adopted, especially by the better class. When Robinson first came, the picturesque Spanish costumes were almost universally worn by both sexes. The ordinary dress of the men was in short clothes and jacket trimmed with scarlet, a silk sash about the waist, botas of ornamented and embroidered deer skin, secured by colored garters, embroidered shoes, the hair long, braided and fastened behind with ribbons, a black silk handkerchief around the head, surmounted by an oval, broad-rimmed hat. The "best clothes" of both sexes were very gorgeous and expensive, but cannot be described in detail here. A glimpse of the ordinary dress and diversions of the soldiers is afforded by Robinson, at his first visit to the San Diego Presidio. He says the soldiers were amusing themselves at the guard-house, "some seated on the ground playing cards and smoking; while others were dancing to the music of the guitar . . . . At the gate stood a sentinel, with slouched hat and blanket thrown over one shoulder, his old Spanish musket resting on the other; his pantaloons were buttoned and ornamented at the knee, below which, his legs were protected by leggings of dressed deer-skin, secured with spangled garters." With the coming of the Americans and the setting of the tide of business toward New England all these things soon began to be affected and, in time, passed into complete eclipse. Manners and customs went with the tide, especially after the Mexican War, and left only loving memories. It took some time to thaw the natural reserve between two peoples who did not understand each other. This thawing process, marking the period at the beginning of which Americans were regarded with distrust, if not dislike, and the time when they were received with marked favor, may be said to have occurred between 1830 and 1835. At the beginning of this period, intermarriages between the two races were rare and when they did occur created a sensation; at the end, they were too common to excite comment. In this connection, and to illustrate what has been stated, the story of Henry D. Fitch's elopement and the troubles which it brought upon him, is worth telling.
Josefa Carrillo, eldest daughter of Joaquin Carrillo, of San Diego, was one of the beautiful women of the place in 1826 when Captain Fitch first came here, and he soon surrendered to her charms. He gave her a written promise of marriage in 1827, according to the custom of the country, and the family consented to the match, provided the impediments could be removed. The first impediment was that Fitch was a foreigner and a Protestant. He announced his intention of becoming a Mexican citizen, and was baptised by Father Menendez on April 14, 1829, at the chapel in the Presidio, Lieutenant Domingo Carrillo acting as godfather. Menendez had promised to marry the couple the following day, but at the last moment he weakened. The governor had decreed that no foreigners should marry within the territory without his special license, and this could not be secured. Domingo Carrillo, uncle of the bride, also refused to serve as a witness, and the case looked hopeless. But Menendez was a man of resources; though not willing to get into trouble himself, he was not averse to helping the lovers, and so suggested an elopement. This was soon arranged and Fitch hastily made ready for a voyage. He bade adieu to his friends, including Miss Carrillo, and got under way in the Vulture. But the departure of the Captain and the ship was only a blind, and in the darkness of night they were hovering close to the shore. Pio Pico, the cousin of Señorita Carrillo, took her on his saddle and carried her swiftly to a spot on the bay shore where a boat was in waiting, and soon the lovers were reunited on the deck. All went well, and they were married at Valparaiso on the 3rd of July, by the Curate Orrego. This elopement caused considerable scandal, and, the matter having been arranged with some secrecy, various rumors were in circulation. One account had it that the lady was forcibly abducted. Fitch re-appeared the next year with his wife and infant son, and after touching at San Diego proceeded to San Pedro where he was arrested by Echeandía's order and sent to San Gabriel for trial. Mrs. Fitch was at first kept under surveillance in a private house and later sent also to San Gabriel. It was alleged that the marriage was a nullity, and technical flaws were picked in the certificate. The couple were repeatedly interrogated before the ecclesiastical court, Fitch acting as his own attorney, and offering to marry his wife over again. The vicar finally decided, in December, that the charges were not substantiated; that the marriage, though irregular, was valid; and ordered that the wife be given up to the husband. "Yet considering the great scandal which Don Enrique has caused in this province, I condemn him to give as a penance and reparation a bell of at least fifty pounds in weight for the church at Los Angeles, which barely has a borrowed one." Certain other easy penances were provided and poor Menendez's conduct was the subject of an investigation. The troubles of the couple were not quite over, for on Jan. 31, 1831, Captain Fitch, writing to his friend, Captain Cooper, complained of the conduct of his wife's parents, who, he says, abused his wife and would not leave her with him. However, although the historian cannot record that they did literally "live happy ever after," it is pleasant to know that they had many years of life together and brought up a large family.
[from William Ellsworth Smythe's History of San Diego, pages 142-160.]
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